With London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017 (aka LFW A/W 2017) well underway and the nation’s capital city awash with global fashion elite, we at Debut have summarised our favourite runway shows. From industry heavyweights to fresh new faces, these are the fashion shows that will dictate our A/W wardrobes. Get ready to start compiling that dream wardrobe wish list!
Eudon Choi Ready To Wear A/W 17
Inspired by modernist architecture, in particular the Austrian-Czech architect and hugely influential theorist Adolf Loos, designer Eudon Choi played with volume, texture, shape, structure and silhouette in his A/W 17 presentation. In shades of dove grey, electric blue, and bright orange, the collection plays on the contrasts between structure and movement (say hi to your dream work trousers, high waisted and wide legged), between masculinity and femininity (wide shoulders and belted waists) and between materials – buttery black leather and thick olive knit for example. It is the perfect composition of simplicity; Adolf Loos would be proud.
Billie Jacobina Ready To Wear A/W 17
Billie Jacobina, the name on everyone’s lips. After graduating from UCA Rochester and winning the Graduate Fashion Week Residency Award in Jakarta, Jacobina also was awarded Fashion Scout’s ‘Ones To Watch’ Award. Her A/W 17 presentation proves why she has already been so celebrated. A concoction of all things pink and kitsch, Jacobina’s collection celebrates femininity, multiculturalism and originality. From the balloon animal crowns to the furry pink mules and unicorn earrings, the collection is a feel good injection much needed during the rush of LFW.
Jacobina, who is a printed textile artist, mixes traditional techniques with contemporary materials and bright colours. For more on Jacobina’s creative process and inspirations take a look at Debut’s Issue 3 – the Self Love Issue – for an exclusive interview with the designer.
Fyodor Golan Ready To Wear A/W 17
Presenting in the British Fashion Council (BFC) Showspace Fyodor Golan – a partnership between designers Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman – offered a thoroughly playful collection. Inspired by the colourful work of German artist Katharina Grosse, known for her bold, electrifying spray painted sculptural environments, Fyodor Golan translated the power and drama of Grosse’s art; adding their own personal tongue-in-cheek approach. From a singular acid green glove the collection grows ever more colourful (and delightfully crazy), into leopard print items, overlaid with colourful graphic designs, and finally head-to-toe rainbow pieces.
Street style is another clear influence; oversized puffer jackets slip off model’s shoulders and exaggerated puffer sleeves adorn graphic t shirts emblazoned with sassy, Tumblr-worthy captions: ‘don’t call me a princess’ is one, another reads ‘power power power’. This show is definitely worth a place on your Instagram – we’ve already snapped our fave, the ‘princess’ look obviously.
Words by Esther Newman