Following one of fashion’s most exciting weeks – Couture Fashion Week – Debut reviews our favourite collections, examining the inspirations behind the clothes and picking out our favourite looks.
Transforming the Grand Palais into a circular mirrored hall reminiscent of the mirrored staircase in Coco Chanel’s Atelier and Art Deco in style with its geometric forms and symmetry, Karl Lagerfeld presented a collection steeped in nostalgia.
It appears that Lagerfeld took many points of reference in mind when designing this collection. In the opening looks alone – skirt suits that reinvent Coco Chanel’s iconic silhouette, this time in Spring-like pastel shades – one can see the 1980s (the era of the power suit), the 1920s (the period Coco Chanel first introduced the suit) and First Ladies of past decades (especially Jackie Kennedy’s pink suit).
As the collection continued this nostalgic theme remained: the 1970s could be seen in the bedazzled over-the-knee boots and embellished trouser suit, the 1960s in the ruffled baby doll dresses and peplum shapes, the 1950s in the belted, full skirted silhouettes of some of the evening looks, and finally the 1920s in the dazzling sequin and marabou feathers of the closing looks. Each united, sometimes in one singular look, this look to the past was modernised by the sherbet colour scheme, futuristic silver accents and continuing presence of the belted waist.
Closing the show was Karl Lagerfeld’s muse du jour, Lily-Rose Depp. Depp may only be 17 but she became the most picture-perfect bride for the show’s climax, decked in a confection of pink ruffles, enormous sleeves any 80s prom queen would be proud of and a peter pan collar.
Words by Esther Newman