Following one of fashion’s most exciting weeks – Couture Fashion Week – Debut reviews our favourite collections, examining the inspirations behind the clothes and picking out our favourite looks.
Inspired by the Japanese art of Kintsugi in which broken pottery is put back together in a way to highlight its cracks – celebrating the beauty of imperfection – Viktor & Rolf’s Couture Spring/Summer 2017 collection sees the designer duo comment once again on conscious fashion. Following the designers’ Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2016 collection, in which they reused fabrics leftover from past seasons, Viktor & Rolf’s ‘Boulevard of Broken Dreams’ is an organic continuation of the designers concern with our unethical relationship to fashion; notably fast fashion and the waste it generates. With this collection Viktor & Rolf call for designers to reuse, recycle and return to the past as much as they can, and to us all to find the beauty in the broken or pre-used.
Piecing together a patchwork quilt-worthy amount of fabric, in various patterns, materials and finishes, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren reused vintage cocktail dresses and evening gowns; deconstructing the originals and reconstructing them into decadent, unique hybrids. The ‘cracks’ between each fragment, gilded with embroidered gold Lurex, draw the eye to this mismatched nature. The result is an update on the ‘up-cycling’ trend, and will undoubtedly trickle down to the high street.
The mismatch of a collection was tied together by the organically sprouting coloured tulle, bursting through seams, adorning collars and trailing down skirts. Its climax and highlight? A number of Raggedy Anne sherbet-sweet ball gowns, bursting with frills and flounce.
Words by Esther Newman